Solo | Pan 24

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100% Exrafine Superwash Merino

Fingering Weight

435 yards | 400 meters

100 grams

Needle: US 1 - 3 | 2.25 - 3.25 mm

Hook: B-1 to D-3 | 2.25 - 3.25 mm

Gauge: 28 - 32 sts per 4" or 10 cm 

Hand dyed in Turkey

Care Instructions

A little extra care will ensure you prolong the life of your projects. Our yarns are machine-washable on a cool, delicate cycle, however hand-washing in cold water with a small amount of wool wash is highly recommended. Lay flat to dry, never use a dryer. Washing your gauge swatch is advised, especially if using contrasted, dark, or saturated colors.


Though our yarns are fixed to stabilize the pigments, some batches may experience color bleeding. If you notice your hands are getting stained while knitting or crocheting, it also may be the pH of your skin pulling the dye molecules out. Climate, water quality, and detergents may also affect dye stability.

If you are experiencing bleeding/rubbing off/staining issues, there are a few ways to solve this depending on how far along in the project you are.

To test prior to winding your skein, take a white paper towel, dampen it slightly with room temperature water, and leave the skein on the towel for a few minutes to see if any color comes off. You can also try rubbing a dampened cotton cloth against the skein, not paper though, as it may shred.
If there is evidence of bleeding, it’s easiest to keep the yarn tied in the hank, and rinse the skein in a bowl or sink full of room temperature water. Do not twist or wring the yarn, as that will cause tangling or even felting due to the tiny hook shaped wool fibers. Make sure the water is completely clear before hanging the skein to dry.

If you noticed the rub off while winding it up and some of the yarn’s still in the skein, re-skein it, loosely secure it with a few figure eight ties and soak it in a bath of room temperature water (you may add some gentle wool soap if you wish). Leave it in the bath for about 30 minutes or until the water cools, and rinse with room temperature water until the water runs clear. Let it dry thoroughly.

If you have already started knitting and don’t want to unravel your project, thread a lifeline through your live stitches and secure with a knot. Wind the rest of your yarn back into a hank and loosely secure with a few figure eight ties. Continue by soaking and rinsing it as described in the first option.

If you are having trouble winding…
Most of our yarn comes in hank form since it’s more suitable for transport and storage. They can get a bit twisted, or ’tangled’-looking in the process for several reasons, the main one being wool fibres are structured in tiny hooks, so it’s their nature to easily get caught on each other when handled. Another contributing factor might be a small residual amount of fine dyestuff particles, especially with naturally-dyed Harvest line.

A few practical tips to make the winding easier:

When you untwist the hank of yarn, before cutting the ends knotted together, gently shake the hank to loosen the strands, then lay it on a flat surface, making sure all the strands are straight, not twisting.

Carefully cut the knotted ends apart without cutting the working yarn strands and remove the contrasting pieces holding the hank together.

If you have a yarn swift, place the hank around it and adjust it so that the tension of the yarn is taut. Otherwise, two dining room chairs placed back-to-back work just as well, with the yarn tight enough that you can realign any strands as needed.

Choose the end closest to the outside of the hank and wind it around your fingers loosely, slowly winding then removing your fingers so that the ball is not too tight. This can be a great upper body workout, but the trick is to not let the hank slack up enough to tangle. Sometimes it’s best to work both ends, and toward the middle of the hank, it will become much faster to wind.

Our yarns are dyed in small batches, so there likely will be some dye lot variance. We will not be able to track dye lots for your customers